To celebrate Taiwan going from Level 3 to Level 2 (which is really 2.9 in our opinion because masks are still mandatory upon leaving your home) we planned a trip to the Taiwan’s east coast. During level 3 (mid-May to late- July) many places were closed and travel was restricted. We hoped restrictions would lift by August 22, and they did!

We were fortunate, the day our trip started, Taiwan eased some more restrictions and permitted beach and some pool swimming WITHOUT masks. Don’t ask. That was a rule, with the only exception for SCUBA divers and surfers. We had our boogie board in hand, just in case we needed to look like we were “surfing”.

First stop. Toyugi Hot Spring Resort

Normally we don’t enjoy places like this during the heat of summer, but a trusted friend said it was worth a visit. With covid protocols, they weren’t permitting day use, so we had to book an overnight stay to experience this, and it was worth it. The room was a bit run down, but the outdoor pool was amazing. It was a fortuitous place to be on the first day the country eased swimming rules, AND it was a full moon.

Beach Town Vibes

Then we headed to our favorite city escape, Dulan, the sleepy little beach town with views of the Pacific Ocean. We rented a small room in this big house which is run by a young woman who calls herself Hanna Banana and her Auntie. It’s simple. No frills, immaculately kept, includes a simple healthy breakfast (many items grown in her garden), has a kitchen for guest use, is super quiet, and a 10-minute walk to the beach. It’s homey and we love it. The feature photo is the view from our room.

Taitung Tea House

This is one of our favorite places in town and serves the best shaved ice (aka bàobīng)!

Highway 11 Taproom

We’ve spent enough time in Dulan that we actually have friends here. Our friend Jo (she owns Mosa, teaches sailing, freelance writes, and is the mom to a two-legged dog) invited us to a beer tasting + dinner. It was hosted by the Highway 11 Taproom, which is located in the groovy old sugar factory.

Route 23

After many trips here, we got a tip about cycling Route 23. This definitely ranks in our top 5 Taiwan routes. No traffic, stunning views, mostly shaded by trees if you go early enough, and just a 15 minutes drive from the big house. It’s 55 k, out and back, 2.5 hours total. We loved it so much, we biked it twice on separate days.

Balloons!

The annual Luye Highland Balloon fest was happening! We enjoyed this event in 2020, but the weather at the time was not great for ballooning, and we only got to see part of the show. This year we weren’t sure that we could get to the event because of COVID restrictions, and a note on the event home page stated that it was for Taitung residents only. Scott asked friends and colleagues, and they all reported that we would not be allowed to enter. Undeterred (because there are often communications hiccups due to language), we contacted the hotel near the Highlands we stayed at last year, and they told us, “No Problem”. The only thing we could not do was “ride” in a balloon, which is a short tethered up and down jaunt, and something we did not plan on doing anyway. This year the weather was perfect for ballooning.

A couple notes about food in this area. Chubby Rabbit is worth a visit. The owner is an Australian who prides himself on the slow food movement and serves Italian dishes in his cozy home. For rural Taiwan, it’s a treat. We also went to Funky Chocolate. Delicious. Not too funky.

Love,
Pickles & Passionfruit
Corresponding from a hotel quarantine, day 11 of 15 (more on that later).

Cycling Shout Out:
Around-The-Island & K.O.M.!

At the same time we were driving home, our buddy Fielding (from our hash running club) was on a solo around-the-island bike ride (called a huándǎo), approx. 1,200 km / 745 miles. We crossed paths with him on our way home and had a noodly lunch together. This photo was taken in the middle of his second day. During his around-the-island route he also completed the famous K.O.M. (King of the Mountain) challenge which is biking from sea level at Haulien to the highest paved road in Taiwan in Wuling. IT’S HIGH ELEVATION CYCLING OF 3,275 meters (10,745 feet). Super impressive considering he bought a bike only a year ago!

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