Said my mother, at the crack of dawn, as she peered outside our hotel window.
This was my mom’s first trip to Asia. She retired this year and was ready to explore this part of the world since my mèimei (younger sister) and I now live over here. We decided to spend a week deep in Kurokawa’s onsen country (onsens are what the Japanese call their naturally occurring hot springs). My sister and I visited this area last year, which is where we picked up our onsen addiction. We knew our mom would dig it. Who wouldn’t like wearing a pretty kimono all day and soaking in mineral rich waters nestled in the woods???
We all flew in separately to Fukuoka (airport code FUK), which is the capital of Kyushu Island, Japan; my sister from Hong Kong, me from Taiwan and my mom from the US. We spent the night eating pan-fried gyoza (half moon-shaped dumplings) and marveling that we were all together which hasn’t happened in a couple years. The next day we tromped around the city of Fukuoka before heading to the countryside.
The only thing that could derail this trip would be if my mom did get that tattoo of her beloved cats. It was plausible. Now we wondered… did she?
REUNITED, FINALLY!
Muumimamma
My mom and the Japanese share an equal love for the Moomin and wouldn’t you know it, we serendipitously stumble upon a Moomin cafe.
Let’s get this Onsen thing on!
We hopped on a public bus and in 2 hours got plopped off at our ryokan in Kurokawa (a ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn with tatami mat rooms). We immediately purchased our wooden onsen hopping passes at the town co-op (aka cat central). These gems grant access to any 3 onsens in the town (which is in addition to the onsens at our ryokans). These were the hardest 3 decisions we had to make all week.
The land of gnomes and onsen eggs
Tension tamers
Mama feeling the magic
No Johnsons in these Onsens
Night night onsen moon
Back in the city of Fukuoka…
Mama Bear & I continue on…
We took the train to Karatsu, a quaint coastal town in the northwest region of Saga Prefecture in Kyushu. We spent 2 nights here in a family run ryokan called Yōyōkaku 洋々閣. The garden features old black pines that are 200+ years old, ceramics (on display and for sale) by Takashi and Hanako Nakazato and of course, an onsite onsen. This was the highest concentrations of corgis I’ve seen in Japan – 1 for every day we were there, which was 2 corgis, therefor, this is my favorite coastal town.
Black Pine Forest of 1 Million Trees
Next stop, Taiwan
We spent the next week and half in Taichung, exploring parks, visiting museums, going to the week long International Jazz fest, eating local treats, getting a couple foot massages and watching mèimei do a rainstick dance.
National Taichung Theater Happy Hour
And more treats…
THE. BEST. DESSERT. ON. THE. PLANET.
Guinea Pig Drama
We had a guinea pig situation that is still cracking my mom up. In short, let’s just say guinea pigs don’t enjoy the sound of crashing cymbals and/or wide-eyed Caucasian women staring of it with big toothy grins. I dedicate this photo to my mom. ❤️
Famous-ish?
Venson, my mom’s new hair designer
It’s a family affair with Venson
Thanks for making it this far dear blog fans. I know that was a lot of photos, but I culled them down from 1,500! Blogging is not easy, people. For those interested in learning more about the Kurokawa Onsen area, go here.
And it turns out my mom did not get any cat tattoos, so we were able to visit ALL onsens.
This was such a special trip for us – a once in a lifetime vacation with our mum. And despite my mom’s very early morning rising, crinkling and opening of bags (in our small ryokan rooms), we had a heck of a time sharing this adventure together. Thanks for making the long journey all the way over here, Muumimamma! We’re so grateful you did. Come back anytime, you too mèimei.
Love,
Passionfruit (aka jiějiě 姐姐, the eldest daughter)
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10 thoughts on “Mama Bear in Asia”
Good show! ….And I had nothing to do with that guinea pig! Venson and I are now a hot item at the International Hair Design & Beauty Convention In Vegas…. and it turns out that Haruki Murakami did lie to me ! He went ahead and wrote me into his new novel. Seems like in this sequel to 1Q84, I’m Mr. Hakata’s mysterious love interest.
Well, I sure am glad I had that tattoo of Kurt Cobain removed from my right breast! THAT little mistake would have spoiled our entire halcyon onsen days! On Thanksgiving I give my deep love & appreciation to my dearest girls: thank you for a wonderful trip of a lifetime. Corgi love & “I shall return “🌸🐇 KTG
Sarah, thank you so much for taking the time to share these experiences with us. I personally LOVE them and wait for them to show up in my inbox. So happy that your Mom was able to do this amazing trip with you and your sister. Travel is the most amazing gift life has to offer!
Gayle, xiexie for taking any time to visit this wee space on the interwebs… aka our online diary of misc. adventures. Since the day I met you, YOU’VE been a wonderful source of travel inspiration so thank you for that (spoiler alert for upcoming blog: Laos). Cheers to the eternal quest to see/do/learn more.
Good show! ….And I had nothing to do with that guinea pig! Venson and I are now a hot item at the International Hair Design & Beauty Convention In Vegas…. and it turns out that Haruki Murakami did lie to me ! He went ahead and wrote me into his new novel. Seems like in this sequel to 1Q84, I’m Mr. Hakata’s mysterious love interest.
Well, I sure am glad I had that tattoo of Kurt Cobain removed from my right breast! THAT little mistake would have spoiled our entire halcyon onsen days! On Thanksgiving I give my deep love & appreciation to my dearest girls: thank you for a wonderful trip of a lifetime. Corgi love & “I shall return “🌸🐇 KTG
You’re funny. I look forward to Murakami’s sequel more than ever now!
Awesome stories and photos! You are truly a gifted blogger, writer, and photographer.
Keep the stories coming!
Xiexie, Elaine. Right back at ya with your photos too!
Loved seeing all the pictures!! I am so happy that your Mom was able to visit you. Thanks for sharing!
Xiexie dear blog follower, aka my favorite mother in law (I learned that from Jerry).
Sarah, thank you so much for taking the time to share these experiences with us. I personally LOVE them and wait for them to show up in my inbox. So happy that your Mom was able to do this amazing trip with you and your sister. Travel is the most amazing gift life has to offer!
Gayle, xiexie for taking any time to visit this wee space on the interwebs… aka our online diary of misc. adventures. Since the day I met you, YOU’VE been a wonderful source of travel inspiration so thank you for that (spoiler alert for upcoming blog: Laos). Cheers to the eternal quest to see/do/learn more.
So great to read about your adventures. The onsen + shinrin-yoku looks like the most relaxing and restorative activity imaginable!
This is my second time through this blog posting… so nice to relive our trip when ever I want/need to! xoxo